Shea Butter

Beurre de karité
Vegetable butters

About

Shea butter, extracted from the nuts of the West African shea tree, combines two main fatty acids: oleic acid (48%) for mildness and stearic acid (40%) for hardness and a creamy, stable lather. It gives the soap a silky feel and a firm bar.

It is also known for its high share of unsaponifiables, components that do not react with lye and stay in the finished soap. That is why many soap makers also use it to superfat.

It is generally used at 5 to 20% of the oils. Beyond that, it can speed up trace and make the soap brittle. Because it is rich in stearic acid, melt it completely before mixing it with the liquid oils, otherwise small grains may appear in the soap.

SAP value: 179 mg KOH/g, i.e. about 122 g of sodium hydroxide for 1 kg at 5% superfat.

Recommended usage rate

From 5 to 20% of the oils in the recipe.

Values

Saponification value (KOH)
179
mg KOH / g of oil
Saponification value (NaOH)
0.128
g NaOH / g of oil
INS
116
Iodine value
59

How much lye for 1 kg?

For 1,000 g of Shea Butter with 5% superfat:

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
121.5 g
Potassium hydroxide (pure KOH)
170.1 g
i.e. 188.9 g of 90% pure KOH

These amounts apply to a soap made with this oil only. For a blend of oils, use the calculator.

Use in the calculator

Fatty acid profile

  • Lauric 0 %
  • Myristic 0 %
  • Palmitic 5 %
  • Stearic 40 %
  • Oleic 48 %
  • Linoleic 6 %
  • Linolenic 0 %
  • Ricinoleic 0 %

Soap qualities (oil used alone)

  • Hardness 45 recommended: 29 to 54
  • Cleansing 0 recommended: 12 to 22
  • Conditioning 54 recommended: 44 to 69
  • Bubbly lather 0 recommended: 14 to 46
  • Creamy lather 45 recommended: 16 to 48

Values for a soap made with 100% of this oil, compared with the recommended range for a complete recipe.

Oils with a similar profile

Fats whose fatty acid composition is closest to this one: useful to find a substitute.

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